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Reflected back at me, I can see myself in enormous shimmering pantaloons, perceptible exclusively in my view. Children relax in a rock pool acting as sea nymphs, and in the next room resides a chatting legume in a exhibition box, next to a imposing mound of cushions. It represents the world of H.C. Andersen (1805-1875), one of the nineteenth-century's highly cherished writers. I'm visiting the city of Odense, located on the island of Fyn in the southern part of Denmark, to explore Andersen’s lasting influence in his home town a century and a half after his demise, and to discover a couple of fairytales of my own.

The Exhibition: H.C. Andersen's House

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the local cultural center honoring the storyteller, including his first home. An expert explains that in previous versions of the museum there was little focus on his fairytales. The writer’s life was explored, but The Ugly Duckling were absent. For guests who travel to Odense in search of storytelling magic, it was a little lacking.

The renovation of Odense city centre, diverting a primary street, provided the opportunity to reimagine how the city’s most famous son could be honored. A prestigious architectural challenge awarded the Japanese company the renowned designers the project, with the museum's fresh perspective at the center of the design. The distinctive timber-clad museum with connected spiralling spaces launched to significant attention in 2021. “We’ve tried to design an environment where we move beyond simply describing the author, but we talk like him: with humour, irony and viewpoint,” explains the curator. Even the gardens follow this philosophy: “It’s a garden for explorers and for colossal creatures, it's planned to make you feel small,” he notes, an objective realized by strategic landscaping, playing with elevation, proportion and multiple meandering routes in a unexpectedly limited space.

The Writer's Legacy

The author penned two and a half memoirs and frequently changed his story. HC Andersens Hus takes this approach seriously; often the views of his companions or excerpts of written messages are shown to subtly challenge the author’s own version of events. “Andersen is the narrator, but he’s not reliable,” explains the curator. The outcome is a fascinating swift exploration of the author's biography and work, thinking patterns and best-loved tales. It is provocative and fun, for adults and kids, with a extra lower-level make-believe land, Ville Vau, for the children.

Exploring Odense

Returning to the actual city, the small city of this Danish city is picturesque, with historic pathways and traditional Danish homes colored in vibrant hues. The author's presence is ubiquitous: the street signals show the author with his signature formal headwear, bronze footmarks give a free guided stroll, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Annually in August this dedication reaches its height with the regular Andersen celebration, which marks the author’s legacy through creativity, dance, stage shows and melodies.

This year, the multi-day festival had 500 shows, most of which were complimentary. While visiting Odense, I encounter painted stilt-walkers, spooky creatures and an Andersen lookalike telling stories. I experience empowering poetry and see an remarkable evening show including graceful performers lowering from the municipal structure and suspended from a crane. Future activities this year are lectures, hands-on activities and, extending the storytelling legacy past the author, the city’s regular wonder event.

Every excellent enchanted locations need a palace, and the island boasts 123 castles and manor houses around the area

Biking Adventures

Similar to most of Denmark, bikes are the ideal method to navigate in this town and a “bicycle route” meanders through the city centre. From Hotel Odeon, I ride to the complimentary port-side aquatic facility, then into the countryside for a circuit around Stige Ø, a compact territory linked by a road to the primary land. Local inhabitants have outdoor meals here following their day, or take pleasure in a peaceful time catching fish, water sports or bathing.

Back in Odense, I dine at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the food selection is inspired by author-inspired concepts and tales. The poem Denmark, My Native Land is featured at the restaurant, and manager Nils Palmqvist reads extracts, translated into English, as he introduces the meal. Such encounters commonplace in my visit, the fynbo enjoy storytelling and it feels as though sharing tales is continuously on the menu here.

Historic Estate Tours

Every excellent magical places deserve a palace, and this region features numerous historic homes and estates around the area. Taking day trips from Odense, I tour Egeskov Castle, Europe’s most intact historic fortress. Although large sections are open to visitors, the castle is also the personal dwelling of the noble family and his wife, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I contemplate if she would notice a tiny vegetable through a stack of {mattresses